Sometimes I forget I’m in Cairo…

Sometimes I forget that I’m living in Cairo. Well, maybe “forget” is the wrong word. It’s more like I’m so preoccupied with or focused on something else, whether it’s planning the website for Tadamon or watching ‘Changing Lanes’ (as I did just now). Cairo is amazing, but it definitely wears down on you. Most of that has to do with the heat – it sucks the life out of you if you’re in it too long (and if you don’t drink enough water…I definitely need to get better at that!). The pollution is also difficult to stand at times (Cairo steals the #1 spot for worst air pollution in the whole world – not a fancy feat if I say so myself). Many mornings the buildings are encompassed by this foggy, almost mist-like haze. One might think it is indeed morning fog rolling out…but no. This is pollution!! Not the prettiest thing in the world, but it is a very distinct aspect of Cairo and one must accept it when they live here. It makes me appreciate the pleas for carpooling in America (even if the request is not met by many). I was in a huuuge traffic jam this afternoon on my way home from a meeting. I was in a taxi on the bridge (over the NILE! As in the river that MOSES floated down and next to which the PYRAMIDS were built! Crazy, huh?) and the traffic was at a dead stop, exhaust pipes pumping out black fumes. It really makes you think, when you can actually see the fumes (and they really are quite visible), how much stuff really is going into the ozone – it’s kind of scary. Anyway, I ended up getting home just fine, but stopped at the bookstore Diwan to buy myself some reading material. So far I’ve read ‘The Road’ by Cormac McCarthy (which I highly, highly recommend. It has become a new favorite book. It has secured it’s place right up there with my other favorites: ‘A Thousand Splendid Suns’ by Khaled Hosseini and ‘The Red Tent’ by Anita Diamant – both of which everyone should read!!). I have started the book ‘Zaatar Days, Henna Nights’ by Maliha Masood (it’s a book about a Pakistani-American woman who travels the Middle East), and have purchased ‘The Things They Carried’ (I don’t know why I haven’t read this yet, but now’s my chance) and ‘White Oleander.’ All the books are quite different, but I’m looking forward to this wide array. Reading has become my break – or escape – from work and from the business of this city. Reading also makes me forget I’m in Cairo. It’s quite amazing how books can transport you to another place and time. It really is remarkable.

Cairo traffic jam

View of the Nile - different than in the movies, eh?

This Wednesday is a holiday, so no work, and people are obviously skipping out of work on Thursday as well, because why go Thursday (the equivalent of Friday in the U.S. – the workweek here is Sunday – Thursday). My friend Susannah and I (and her friends from work – she works at AMERA) are going to this little beach get-away called Basata out on the Sinai. It’s right on the Red Sea. This little resort is pretty much without electricity, has little huts right on the beach, and is secluded, away from the busy tourist areas on the Sinai (Dahab, for example). We will get to sleep right on the beach under the stars. I’m really looking forward to the trip. All of it besides the 10 hour bus ride there…and back…

While I’m on the Sinai I really will forget I’m in Cairo, because I won’t be in Cairo! Still in Egypt though, although claim of the Sinai was contested for a very long time back in the old days. Egypt won. Thank you Egypt for granting me a visit to this glorious chunk of mostly-desert land. The coasts are phenomenal though, and that’s where people head (in addition to Alexandria) for rest and relaxation.

Basata, here I come!

It’s time to put Cairo aside for a couple days. I’ve been here 10 days now and feel solid, having adjusted and dealt with my first battle with food poisoning (warning: do not eat fuul – beans/pita – from a street vendor after 2pm. It’s been sitting out all day). Let’s just say my stomach was totally pissed off at me, and gave me a hard time over the weekend. Mish kowayyiz (‘Not good’) in Arabic. I’ll be back to Cairo soon enough. I’ll end with a little list – that I imagine I’ll add to over the next month or so.

Things that remind me that I’m in Cairo:

The heat wave that hits me every time I step outside of my air-conditioned room

The bowwab’s (doorman’s) smile and chuckle when I ask him – once again – to unlock the elevator for me

The honking of the taxis literally every second someone in front of them puts on their brakes (even if it’s just a milisecond…no joke)

The eery howl of mating cats

The sound of a tiny mouse crawling around in my air conditioning unit (it must be hiding from the zillions of (mating) cats)

My funkily uneven bed/mattress (for those of you wondering where I reside, here are some room pictures – I’ll post living room ones later)

It looks comfy...but isn't!

It's all the space I need

The call to prayer echoing from mosques all around Cairo

The buzz of the delivery vespas skirting around Cairo (you can get anything – and I mean anything – delivered to you at any time and any place in Cairo. For example, I got my “cure all” food poisoning meds in the middle of the night, right at my door, for only a couple of bucks…sweet, right?!)

My own shock at seeing foreigners wearing tank tops or shorts, even though I come from the same “Western” culture that they do and could very well dress the same way (I always wear 3/4 or full sleeve shirts and long pants here because it’s more respectful and because it makes me feel more comfortable socially).

Hanging my clothes to air dry

Trying to read signs in Arabic (I can pronounce anything, but do not necessarily understand the word I’m pronouncing!)

Showing up to work a little later than expected and having it been fine (“Ma feesh keela” – “It’s okay/no problem”) – it’s what some people call “Egypt Time;” there’s room for delays

The crowded metro (subway) cars during rush hour

Looking at any – and all! – of the furniture in my apartment. It’s considered very “Egyptian,” or typical of the apartments here decoration wise (gold-platted, random pictures on the wall, odd items).

Cold showers that are ENJOYABLE

Drinking warm water and being okay with it

Late night phone calls or doorbells ringing at 5am and it being socially appropriate (not appropriate for or conducive to my sleeping schedule, though!)

LE 5 (Egyptian Pounds, less than 1 USD) taxi rides to the center of Cairo

Nearly getting hit by a car almost every single day – jay-walking (Egyptians would probably laugh if I mentioned the idea of jaywalking – it’s how everyone does it here!) which is a MUST to get anywhere in Cairo

Bargaining, alllwaaays bargaining!

Arabic greetings and goodbyes – Salaam Aleykum (Peace be upon you), Izzayik (how are you), Alhamdullilah (thanks be to God (Allah)), Masalaama (goodbye)

More to come soon…